Many people believe that facial acids dry out the skin, but this couldn't be further from the truth. In reality, facial acids—particularly AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids)—offer numerous skincare benefits when used correctly. The confusion arises because people often associate acids with harsh, drying solutions found in pharmacies, like 100% salicylic acid. This post will break down the myths, explain how to use acids effectively, and identify who can benefit most from them.
Common Types of Facial Acids and Their Benefits
Modern skincare formulas include natural fruit acids that are much gentler and safer for regular use. These acids fall into two primary categories: AHAs and BHAs. Each acid has its own specific benefits, but they all serve to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. Below are some of the most popular acids used in skincare:
- Glycolic Acid – Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid is one of the most effective exfoliants. It removes dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and helps with cell turnover.
- Lactic Acid – Sourced from milk, lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid and excellent for hydrating the skin while exfoliating.
- Mandelic Acid – Derived from almonds, mandelic acid works slower but penetrates deeply, making it ideal for sensitive skin types.
- Tartaric Acid – This grape-derived acid has antioxidant properties and helps to smooth and soften the skin.
- Malic Acid – Derived from apples, malic acid works as a mild exfoliant and also helps to brighten the complexion.
- Citric Acid – Found in citrus fruits, citric acid helps to exfoliate and promote skin radiance.
- Salicylic Acid – Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is a BHA. It’s oil-soluble, making it perfect for oily or acne-prone skin, though it can be drying when used in high concentrations.
How Do Fruit Acids Benefit the Skin?
Using fruit acids in skincare offers numerous benefits, far beyond simple exfoliation. Here's how they can improve your skin:
- Exfoliation of Dead Skin Cells – AHAs and BHAs effectively remove the top layer of dead skin cells, leaving your skin smoother and more radiant.
- Hydration – Contrary to popular belief, acids like lactic and mandelic actually help retain moisture, improving the skin’s hydration levels.
- Cell Regeneration – Acids stimulate the skin’s natural regeneration process, promoting the production of new, healthy cells.
- Collagen and Elastin Boost – Acids encourage the production of collagen and elastin, making the skin appear firmer and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
- Reduction of Hyperpigmentation – Regular use of acids can lighten dark spots and mild pigmentation issues, improving overall skin tone.
- Anti-Aging Properties – By stimulating collagen production and removing dead skin cells, fruit acids have a visible anti-aging effect.
- Improved Product Absorption – By exfoliating the skin, acids allow other skincare products to penetrate more deeply, making them more effective.
Are Facial Acids Suitable for All Skin Types?
Facial acids are suitable for most skin types, but there are exceptions. It’s important to choose the right type of acid and concentration based on your skin’s needs. Here are some skin types and concerns that can particularly benefit from the use of AHAs and BHAs:
- All Skin Types (Except Hypersensitive Skin) – Most skin types can safely use fruit acids, but hypersensitive skin may react negatively, especially to stronger acids like glycolic acid.
- Hyperpigmentation – Acids like glycolic and lactic acid can help reduce dark spots and even out skin tone.
- Aging and Photoaging – Mature skin benefits from the cell regeneration and collagen-boosting properties of AHAs and BHAs.
- Clogged Pores and Acne – Salicylic acid, a BHA, is oil-soluble and works deep into the pores, making it ideal for those with oily or acne-prone skin.
- Accumulation of Dead Skin Cells – Regular exfoliation with acids can prevent the buildup of dead skin cells, which can make your complexion look dull.
- Oily Skin – Acids help regulate sebum production, making them especially useful for people with oily or combination skin.
How to Use Facial Acids Correctly?
While facial acids provide excellent benefits, using them incorrectly can lead to irritation or dryness. Here are some guidelines to ensure you’re using acids safely and effectively:
- Start Slowly – If you’re new to using acids, introduce them gradually into your routine. Begin with a lower concentration and build up as your skin gets used to them.
- Use at Night – Acids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it’s best to apply them in the evening. This will give your skin time to heal overnight without the risk of sun damage.
- Always Apply Sunscreen – If you’re using facial acids, wearing sunscreen during the day is non-negotiable. Acids can make your skin more susceptible to UV rays, increasing the risk of sunburn or sun damage.
- Moisturize Afterward – Apply a good moisturizer after using an acid-based product to help lock in hydration and prevent any dryness.
- Don’t Overdo It – Overuse of acids can lead to irritation or damage to your skin barrier. It’s best to use them in short, targeted courses (e.g., 2-3 weeks), giving your skin time to recover in between.
Our Natural AHA Peeling Serum: A Gentle Yet Effective Solution
At My Skincare Oasis, we’ve formulated a natural AHA Peeling Serum that includes five different fruit acids. This serum is designed to exfoliate, hydrate, and boost the regeneration process without causing excessive dryness or irritation.
Here’s how to use our AHA Peeling Serum for maximum benefit:
- Apply at Night – Use the serum in the evening, before applying your night moisturizer.
- Use Sunscreen – If you’ll be exposed to sunlight the next day, ensure you apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin.
- Use in Courses – For best results, use the serum for 2-3 weeks in a row, then give your skin a break.
Maximize Results with Complementary Products
To get the most out of your skincare routine, consider combining the AHA Peeling Serum with other products like our ubtan powder and hydrogel. Together, these products work synergistically to cleanse, exfoliate, and deeply hydrate the skin. Feel free to reach out to us for personalized recommendations on how to best combine these products for your skin type and concerns.
Facial acids, when used correctly, can be a powerful addition to any skincare routine. Far from drying out the skin, acids like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic actually help hydrate and rejuvenate your complexion. By following the proper steps, choosing the right acid for your skin type, and incorporating other skincare products for added benefits, you can achieve a brighter, smoother, and more youthful appearance.
Anastasia Averkov
~Formulator and founder of completely natural skincare brand - MySkincareOasis